Sara Lynn Paige Photography Menu

photography tools & tips

Permalink:

Don’t Fear The Flash – Flash In Natural Light Shooting

dftf

This post is for specifically for reader Amy (hi Amy!), but it’s also for anyone who, like me, was afraid to add a flash to their gear list due to that whole “natural light shooter” thing. After realizing I’d be shooting a lot more personal events in lighting conditions I can’t control, I invested in one- and BOY IT IS SO AWESOME SERIOUSLY GUYS. Yeah, exactly. But, since I’m still a natural light snob in secret (ok, you got me), here are some tips on how to use this bad boy so it doesn’t look like you shot someone face on with your flash. Because that rarely ever looks flattering. In fact I think it’s safe to say that it never looks flattering.

With mountable flashes, you are able to point the light in different directions so you can bounce the light, which is what we’re going to do today. There are a lot of different directions you can send the light (even behind you!) so you can bounce light no matter where you are trying to shoot and what exactly surrounds you. It can create a lot of different looks and is really fun to experiment with, but we’re going to keep it simple today and start with a basic one: bouncing from above with a mini reflector strapped to the top of the flash.
dftf
Those of you that have been shooting in natural light for a while may have just leaned back from your monitor (or phone) and knowingly whispered, “Oooh.” because you know what we’re doing. If not, that’s okay, we’ll break it down. Just like we use reflectors to control the natural light from the sun by redirecting it back at our subject, we can do the same with the flash light. It creates light that is not so harsh as light from the flash pointed straight forward, and when paired with even a little bit of natural light- suddenly it looks like there are skylights in the roof and your subject being back-lit isn’t a bummer, it’s actually FABULOUS.

Examples, you ask? (Poor Tom was talking to me while I was doing this, sorry baby!) On the left we have Tom with no flash and no reflector. Now before we all get flash happy I feel like I should say if you’re doing portrait work in the comfort of your studio or even outside, you can stick with the reflectors to bounce real natural light, but I wanted to show you guys that (at least for me at this point) the flash is great for indoor events and receptions at weddings where you’re not in control of the lighting situation. Examples time, really. Notice how when shot with the flash straight on you can see shiny spots on Tom’s face like he’s just been doing five minutes of cardio? (The shadows his face will cast shot this way are really dark too, if you’ll notice under his chin.) I think Morn’s expression aptly depicts how I feel about straight on flash too. Thanks for that, Morn.
dftf
But when we tilt it up and bounce it from the ceiling and from the reflector -Whoa- suddenly it looks like I had four hands and was able to hold a huge reflector while still shooting. Cool, right?

Here are some other examples I took for you guys so you could see bouncing the flash light does in a working environment.

You can grab a small reflector for your flash at your local camera shop, on Amazon, or even make one out of paper or those stiff white folders you can get at any office supply store. Happy flashing! (I’ve been waiting this whole time to say that.)

  • Watch out for subjects wearing glasses, sometimes the lenses can catch the shine of the flash
  • You can also drap a sheer cloth over your flash to diffuse the light further
  • Watch out for walls! They can be great to bounce light off of, but if your subject is too close you might get some weird shadows
  • Babies = no flash
  • Alyssa

    I’m so glad to see this post! I was amazed with the light from that bridal party and was curious how you did that. I love seeing how you capture photos, so I hope you’ll keep posting photographer tools and tips! :)

    Joseph got me a Lightscoop for Christmas and it’s just lovely. I never had even though about flash, but it is makes it so nice and smooth. I was actually thinking about making a post about my lovely Lightscoop the other day. We were watching a PBS documentary about photojournalists, and while I went into another room they began talking about how much they love their Lightscoops. Joseph wrote it down, and I was totally surprised by it on Christmas! I never would have known to buy on myself (until this post, that is), so I was very thankful!

  • links 19.13 « alexandrabrovco.com

  • •••
  • Thanks for leaving a comment, please keep it clean. HTML allowed is strong, code and a href.

Permalink:

DIY Camera Purse & Bag

One of the only drawbacks to bringing your camera absolutely everywhere is the purse dilemma. I feel like that should be emphasized so it sounds more ominous. The purse dilemma. (How’s that?) Selecting a bag big enough to carry everything you need but also big enough to slip your camera into, with padding and protection, and yet remains stylish can be daunting. Tossing an expensive SLR into a purse with lipstick tubes and other point scratch-inducing surfaces is out of the question. So what is one to do?

There was a time when if you wanted to take your camera out protected, you had to suck it up and bring it in a camera bag. Thankfully now there are gorgeous, high quality pre-made camera bags that are purses as well (Ephiphanie, *emera, ONA, Kelly Moore, Jo Totes, etc). While these are all fabulous, if it doesn’t meet my list of “must haves”, and I don’t love at first sight, I don’t want to buy it. So I make my own! And it might just suit you to make one yourself too.

STEP ONE – A CAMERA BAG



You’ll need a camera bag. Preferably one medium sized, with an insert small enough to fit into your purse, but big enough to carry your camera plus some extras. And, most importantly, the the inside padding needs to be able to pop out. Most camera bags do this, but if you don’t already have a few camera bags lying around the house, you’ll want to make sure before you buy one. Photojojo also has this beautiful camera bag insert ready to go for this specific purpose, as well.

STEP TWO – A PURSE

This is my second DIY camera purse, and I’m using the same insert as before (it was my mothers), so when I went bag shopping I was able to pop in the empty insert and see if it fit. If you already have a purse in mind, and don’t have a camera bag already at home, head to your local camera-bag carrying shop with your empty purse and start popping in inserts. (And you should probably tell the staff what you’re doing too, so they don’t think you’re up to no good.) Just want to make sure that your purse is wide enough and deep enough to hold an insert. I am using the David Jones Large Top Zip Satchel.

STEP THREE – YOUR CAMERA BAG PURSE




My camera bag fits my 7D with mounted 35mm 1.4L, a 100mm 2.8 with hood, my wallet, change purse (Canada: Where Coins Actually Matter) etc, etc. I don’t always walk around with an extra lens, but I thought I’d show what this baby can do. Enjoy your new camera bag purse!

  • •••
  • Thanks for leaving a comment, please keep it clean. HTML allowed is strong, code and a href.

Permalink:

Double Exposure Tutorial & Free Action

Happy Friday, everyone! I thought I’d give you all a treat today and write up a quick tutorial on how to recreate a double exposure in Photoshop. First of all, I’m sure there are lots of ways to do this, and even more ways to make it look more authentic, but since it really requires mass tinkering for each image, I thought I’d share the basics of what I do with you.

The simplest way to do it would be to copy one photo onto the other as a new layer, and then to change the layer’s blending mode to “Screen” and further adjust the opacity, but we’re going to add an additional tip. If you want to learn how to do it yourself, read on. But I’ve also made a few handy little actions in case you want to speed up the process. Download them for free here. =)


I find that just doing the old copy/paste/screen routine doesn’t quite get the balance I like. One image is always darker than the other and doesn’t really look like a genuine double exposure. So what I like to do is add a Multiply layer from the first image. It probably sounds confusing, so don’t worry, we’ll break it down.

The How To, Gumshoe

  • First you’ll want to open both your images in Photoshop. Copy the first image (Ctrl+A, Ctrl+C) and paste it onto the second image (Ctrl+V). If you want to go the extra mile you can also copy the second image onto the first and go through all the steps twice to see which image you like better. (They will be different!)
  • Next put the top layer blending mode to “Screen”. If you have your layers window open, this should be located in the right hand sidebar. If not, go to Layer > Layer Style > Blending Options and when the window pops up you should see a drop down box that reads “Blending Mode Normal”. Click that box and select “Screen” from the list.
  • Now copy your original layer (re-select your “background” layer, right click, select “Duplicate Layer”) and change the blending mode to “Multiply”. You should notice right away the balance between your two images is adjusted. Sometimes this is enough, sometimes I add another Multiply layer.

See, easy peasy! Enjoy!

  • •••
  • Thanks for leaving a comment, please keep it clean. HTML allowed is strong, code and a href.

Permalink:

Belated Birthday Lunch & How To Replicate Film

On Saturday we visited Tom’s mom and her husband for a little belated birthday gathering, and she spoiled us with some fabulous vegan food and deserts (cinnamon infused cherry cobbler, oh my gosh) and we spent all day talking about life and visiting. (We always spend several hours over there talking before realizing that it’s been as long as it has.) And aside from spilling water on my desk and spending fifteen minutes airing out my wallet, keyboard, and random papers with a hair dryer- my Sunday was fairly uneventful, but in a good way. It left me feeling rested and excited to start the work week! I hope yours was just as delightful.

On a different note, many of you have been emailing me asking me if it’s possible to “truly replicate” the look of film using the Reminisce action set, and so I thought I would process these photos to kind of show you the potential. Whether your film habit is too expensive, conflicts with your vegan values, or you just want to experiment- it’s definitely possible. While every type of film is different, and there are lots of different types of looks you may want to accomplish, it is possible to get fairly close to so many using what is provided in the set. I tried to keep it simple for this example and used only “Sage” (the “Reminisce” layer was between 80-100 opacity for each photo), sometimes with “Reminisce” added on top. After that I dropped this handy film style dust & particles layer [download full res] on top (set it to screen, 50-80% opacity) and voilà, film craving satisfied. Enjoy!

film style actions
how to replicate film in photoshop




  • •••
  • Thanks for leaving a comment, please keep it clean. HTML allowed is strong, code and a href.

Permalink:

Winter Weather Guide: Cameras Catch Colds Too



This post is a bit wordy. If you want to skip the explanation, just read the stuff under the big bold headers.

The colder the air the lower the moisture content. That means when you take your camera inside after being outside in the cold for a while, condensation can form on the insides of your camera. As you may remember from childhood (either: Hairdryer in bath = NO, or: Spilled water on iPod = PANIC MODE) water on electronics is never good!

When you make your way outside, keep your camera zipped up inside your coat or in your camera bag for as long as possible. If it’s really cold outside it’s best to leave it out once you’ve taken it out. I know it’s tempting to stuff it back in your coat, but depending on how warm you are and how cold it outside, that could be a really bad mistake. Remember, we don’t want any condensation inside the camera. So if it’s really cold and you’re layered up and extremely warm, chances are when you stick the camera back in your coat it will be too fast of a transition.

Before you throw your hands up and retire your camera for the season, hear me out. You can protect it from the outside and the inside and still have a great time shooting. All you need is a Ziploc bag.


WINTER WEATHER PROTECTION GEAR

  • A large plastic seal-able (Ziploc) bag that fits over your camera and lens.
  • A small microfiber cloth for wiping down your lens when the inevitable snowflake hits.
  • OPTIONAL: A second large plastic seal-able (Ziploc) bag that fits over your camera and lens, with a hole cut out that just fits over the tip of your lens. This is if your camera is not professionally weather sealed (check your manual or Google your model to find out) or if you just want that extra bit of protection from snow or the camera getting wet. If you feel like you might be too embarrassed shooting with your camera stuffed in a Ziploc bag, there are ready-made waterproof bags that do the trick for rain, snow, or light underwater activity. Honestly though, you can make the same thing yourself with a $10 ultraviolet filter and a plastic bag. You can also wrap up the important bits in cling wrap. The choice is yours!

Okay, if there isn’t snow on the ground and it isn’t raining, you’ll only need the one Ziploc bag. Before you head inside to your home, a grocery store, or even a warm car, put your camera inside the bag and seal it shut. Once you’re inside, leave the camera in the bag until it’s around room temperature. I know, I know, you want to look at your photos immediately when you arrive inside, but you must leave the camera in the bag sealed. If you really can’t wait, take the memory card out before you head inside.

NOTE: If you’re like me and like to go to indoor tropical gardens or butterfly conservatories in the winter, or even if you live in tropical conditions, remember the same thing applies! It may look silly to be carrying your camera in a Ziplock bag for ten to fifteen minutes before you start snapping but it’s important. Remember, it’s going from cold to hot that you need to worry about condensation. Air conditioning to an 80°F humid conservatory counts!

That’s it. Now go out, shoot like crazy, and have fun knowing your gear will last you years to come.


VENTURING OUT

  • Cold air = low moisture content
  • Once the camera is cold, leave it cold.
  • Batteries die faster. Carry spares if you’ll be out long.

LET IT SNOW

  • Use your microfiber cloth to wipe away snow or water droplets.
  • If it’s a big snowstorm, use a second Ziplock bag with a hole over the lens. You can tape it in place.

HEADING INSIDE

  • Put your entire camera and lens inside your Ziplock bag before going inside.
  • Camera should be room temperature before removing.

  • Jovi

    Thanks for this post! I never realized that cold air would cause problems for my camera. Yesterday I was walking around the city at around 37degrees and my camera was freezing and at that time I was not really concerned that it would harm my camera. Do you think that this one time ordeal could harm my camera?

    • Sara

      Hi Jovi,

      You should be fine. Honestly a lot of people go without ever taking that extra precaution but it does help prolong the life of your camera. Next time just slip a ziplock bag into your purse. =)

      (I hope you had fun walking around with your camera.)

  • •••
  • Thanks for leaving a comment, please keep it clean. HTML allowed is strong, code and a href.

Permalink:

Sara Lynn Paige Actions (The Black & White Collection)

Exciting News!

A lot of requests come in for instruction on processing photographs, and while I’m more than willing to help people find what they’re looking for if I have time, I tend to receive the same type of requests over and over, and a lot of them: “How do you get such vivid and colorful photos?”, “How do you make your b&w photos look like real black and white?” and some are even so bold as to ask, “What do you do, step by step to achieve this?” Well, I finally decided to spare myself some time (and yours) and create some actions for those of you looking to dabble in Photoshop on your own. I decided to start with a black & white collection (boy, these take a lot of work!) and after months of work and non-stop tinkering, I’m proud to announce a finalized collection I am extremely happy with.

Sara Lynn Paige Actions (The Black & White Collection)Sara Lynn Paige Actions (The Black & White Collection)

PURCHASE MORE EXAMPLES

If you’re on Flickr, please consider joining my action group to share your work, ask questions, or just keep updated on upcoming releases. Please let me know if you have any questions or need any assistance! Enjoy!

What The Heck Are Actions?

Don’t use actions? Don’t worry, it’s really easy. Actions are saved steps in Photoshop that do all the work for you when it comes to processing your photo. Simply open your photo in Photoshop, pick the action you want, and press play. In less time than it takes to brew a cup of tea, you have a processed photo.

  • •••
  • Thanks for leaving a comment, please keep it clean. HTML allowed is strong, code and a href.

Permalink:

How To Sharpen The Details Without It Looking Photoshopped

I’m sure this is already out there somewhere on the www, but I figured I’d include it here anyway, because it’s a trick I use fairly often.

The High Pass Sharpen

I like details. Who doesn’t? I also happen to like shooting with a wide aperture. (Newer photographers, remember that means small numbers, like 1.4, 1.8, 2.0) Unfortunately, shooting at such a wide aperture means sometimes I lose sharpness in the details. (I use a 50mm 1.4 but sometimes it can get pretty soft.) So how do I fix this? I take two seconds in Photoshop and give my photo a little punch. Here’s how you can too.

First let’s take a close up look at what your photo might look like at it’s original size. Pretty good, but could be sharper. I want Pumpkin’s eyes to be the focus, and to really pop, so that’s what I’ll sharpen. Make sure all your other editing is done (if any) and flatten your image. Now duplicate that layer. (Or if you’re a keyboard junkie like me: Ctrl + A, Ctrl + C, Ctrl + V)

Next we’re going to use the high pass. Filter → Other → High Pass. Up pops a screen asking you to input the radius number. This is really up to you, because every image will be different. You don’t want it to be too much because this is really a subtle technique. For the sake of this example I used 8.8 so you could really tell the difference, which is more than double what I usually use. (I vary from 2.8 – 4.8 depending on the photograph.) Next we’ll want to overlay this layer. (In your layers bar, to the left of Opacity and Fill, located in the right sidebar. By default it’s set to “Normal”.)

Now your photograph looks something like this. But, in my humble opinion, this is too much. See the fur on the top of his head? The whole photo has now obviously been attacked with a sharpen tool. Why on earth would I do that? That would defeat the purpose of shooting with a lower aperture. If I wanted his whole head in super sharp focus I would have shot with an f/stop of 2.8 or higher! I still want the majority of the photo to be soft, but I want the focus to be sharp like it would be with a nicer (read: way more expensive) lens. So what do we do?

We duplicate the background layer (your original, unsharpened photo), and place it on top of the high pass layer. Now simply take the eraser tool and wave that sucker over the main focus in the photograph. I usually do the eyes, or sometimes the eyes and nose (for cats, anyway). But for this shot I just erased the eyes, leaving me with a soft photograph, with one sharp (but subtly so) focus.

I imagine you’re getting ready to scroll back up, and then back down again to try and see if you can spot the differences. I’ll spare you the trouble.

AHA. And you thought it looked good NOW, wait until you zoom out and take the whole photo in.

PURRFECT!

Soft with that little subtle punch. (As if punches could be subtle.)

It should be noted You don’t need Photoshop to use this technique. You just need a photo editing software that uses layers, and pretty much all of them do now, and the ability to sharpen. In Paint Shop Pro you simply copy the layer and instead of doing the high pass, you sharpen till your heart is content, and then follow the same steps above!

Enjoy!

  • •••
  • Thanks for leaving a comment, please keep it clean. HTML allowed is strong, code and a href.

Permalink:

Beginner DSLR Buyer’s Guide

I want to start this guide with a full disclosure. I own a Canon, and though I have done significant research on Nikon for the sake of this guide, I just don’t have the four+ years of experience (and I’m no expert!) that I do for Canon, so please keep that in mind. I am not endorsed by either Canon or Nikon, and I have written this guide based on my own experiences only. I have spent a lot of time and energy helping Flickr users, readers, or friends on an individual basis shop for their first DSLR, and while I’ll still happily answer any questions you might have or help you personally shop for “what’s right for you”, I’ve decided to put together this little resource guide as a good starting point for anyone looking to purchase a DSLR. Since this is a beginner’s guide, I will try to keep all of the technical speak to a minimum. After you read this, you can browse among the hundred other really great reviews out there that include everything before you make your purchase.

Why do I want to purchase a DSLR?

This is the first thing you should ask yourself. Seriously! I know it may sound silly, but really think about it! Your answers can and will vary (family portraits (new baby, perhaps?), hobbyist, photography classes, film is expensive, your point and shoot just isn’t good enough anymore, etc) but the common link should be the word “quality”. If you want quality photographs, the flexibility and control that a DSLR offers, and the experience of quality lenses, then this is the guide for you.

It’s all in the glass.

Now listen up, folks, and listen well. You can have the best body in the world, but if you’re carting around a 15-55mm standard kit lens, it won’t make a lick of difference. This is the most important part of this guide, so if you read nothing else, read this: Your body can last you a good four to six years, at least! But your lenses will last you much, much longer. Buy quality lenses. When you’re buying a DSLR for the first time, your focus should be more on the lens than the body, which is not something you’d think as first time buyer! For example, if you’re looking at a 50mm 1.4 and a Canon T2i, but you can’t afford both, drop your body to the Canon T1i instead of dropping your lens to the 50mm 1.8. A good piece of glass is worth every shiny penny.

So recommend something, already!

Nikon has some really, really promising entry level cameras for a lower price than Canon, but if video is important to you, or if you’re looking to get a better intermediate camera eventually, you might want to go with Canon. From what I’ve seen, Nikon has some really fantastic entry level options, and then some fantastic top of the line professional equipment, but not much in between. Which is better? Honestly, they are both great. They have differences and similarities, but what it boils down to is personal preference. Why did I go with Canon? Both my manual camera and first digital point and shoot were Canon, so I was familiar with the interface. That’s it! No big secret there!

The Nikon D5000

The Nikon D5000 is a great starter option. It’s almost the same camera as Nikon’s D90, save a few minor (or are they?) details, but since the kit for the D90 is a thousand dollars, it will be included in the intermediate guide. (If money isn’t an obstacle for you, and you want Nikon, go for the D90!) If you’re just looking for entry level photography (family photos, trips, something for your purse) and that’s it, I’d go with the D5000 and get a banging lens. If you’re more of an enthusiast and find yourself in love with photography, go for the D90 and you won’t regret it. They both use the same sensor (which also happens to be the same sensor as the D300S!) If you plan on filming home movies or doing a lot of video as well as photography, you should see the Canon T1i below.

The Canon T1i aka 500D

Well, my first move was to research the T2i, simply because it was the upgraded version, but I kept coming back to this bad boy. Why? Because the T2i was a thousand dollars, and if you’re going to spend that much, spend it on an intermediate body. The T1i is a powerful camera providing pro-like image quality, fabulous video, and has the advantage of being small and light weight. See a fabulous and detailed overview here. Again, if you’re looking for intermediate my recommendation is the 50D, but I have a sneaking suspicion a newer model is going to be released soon.

The Lenses

Now, I can really only in good conscious recommend lenses for Canon users because that’s what I know from experience. Perhaps a Nikon user I trust (Emily? Bronwyn? Diana?) would be willing to write a sister guide for the Nikon lenses (or even bodies too!) and we could link to each other! For now, this is what I recommend for those going with a Canon body.

For those of you looking for an “all purpose” lens that zooms, I’d recommend the 28-135mm f/3.5-5.6. What you should know, however, is that though the zoom is handy and nice to have, the “3.5-5.6″ number part means it’s not so good indoors. The lower that number, the faster the lens, and the smaller the focal point can go. Generally speaking, if you want a number lower than 3 (more light is let in, faster, etc) you’re looking at a prime lens (unless you’re willing to pay a lot more.) So if you’ve been browsing Flickr and you’re looking for that smooth, silky look with a small sharp object in part of the photo- they’re probably using a prime. Or at least a lens with a lower number. (This number is called an f/stop, in case you were wondering.) But if you aren’t looking to shoot indoors or in other low light conditions, and zoom is really important to you, then this is the lens for you. If you’re looking for a lens that is great indoors and outdoors, and you don’t mind not having a zoom, go prime!

I recommend the 50mm f/1.4 (this is what I have, it’s love), or the 85mm f/1.8, or if macro food photography/insects/flowers/ is more your thing, I’d recommend the 100mm f/2.0. I’m trying to keep this list short, and which lens you buy is based entirely on how you plan on using your camera, but if it helps, I have been using a 50mm f/1.4 every day since I picked it up. Almost every shot you’ve seen on this site (as of May 18th, 2010) was taken with a starter Canon XTi and a 50mm f/1.4. The 50mm is the most commonly purchased lens out there.

I feel I should note one more thing, however, and that’s if you’ve gone with the T1i, because it’s a crop sensor, the 50mm will act more like an 80mm in that it’s quite close to your subject! You have to back up pretty far for family shots, they have to squeeze in, and arms length self portraits are pretty much out of the question. If the 50mm is too close for you, I’d recommend a 30mm or 35mm instead. Now, if you’re looking for an f/stop lower than 2.0 in the same price range as these other lenses, an off brand (specifically a Sigma 30mm) is recommended. (2.0 is my favorite f/stop, so I wouldn’t mind.)

Well, that about wraps it up for the beginners guide. If I’ve left anything out or you have any further questions, please feel free to let me know via comments or email. I hope this helps you!

*Originally I included more cameras in this guide but then it was super long and really in my opinion these are the best choices for beginners, but they certainly aren’t the only choice! If you have any more questions about specific camera bodies and want to just shoot me an email, I will happily help!

  • •••
  • Thanks for leaving a comment, please keep it clean. HTML allowed is strong, code and a href.

Permalink:

How To Create Custom User Profiles


I’ve been meaning to make a quick post (HA. Quick, yeah right. They’re never quick!) about custom user profiles for a while now, but a comment yesterday and yet another Flickrmail this morning prompted me to actually get my butt in gear and write it up!

Your photos are always so crisp and warm, how can I get my photos to look like that?

There are a lot of ways to answer this, and each one would be right, but in my humble opinion there are three key factors in producing images like this, and that’s what I’ll touch on for you. The first would be that I use a prime lens, and a pretty darn good one at that. It’s a Canon 50mm 1.4, but if you don’t use a Canon body I would recommend the Sigma 50mm 1.4! Prime lenses tend to produce a crisper image and allow you to have a shallow depth of field (one small/medium area in focus and the rest of your photo is blurred) and I can guarantee you that the image feel and quality we’re talking about would have not have been possible on my kit 18-55mm zoom lens. Believe me, I tried. (Just last night, in fact!) Does it have to be a 50mm? No. But if you’re looking for crisp without the aid of Photoshop, it should probably be prime. For those of you wondering what the heck a “prime lens” is, it’s simply a fixed focal point! There’s no zoom!

The second trick is using a custom user profile. Sure, you can obtain these colors in Photoshop, but why bothering tinkering around for a few hours on a batch of photos when you can have it almost exactly the way you want it SOOC (straight out of the camera)? Let your camera do the work for you! That’s why you paid for a DSLR, for the magic in the body! Now, I could tell you to refer to your manual on how to create a custom user profile, but because I’m awesome pants, I just happen to have a photo walk through written up.

First off, I use a Canon Digital Rebel XTi, so if you use a different Canon body the menus will be slightly different, but this should still give you a pretty good idea of where to go. If you use a Nikon, I am not sure how to create custom user profiles, but would assume that it’s possible to do so. I apologize but since I don’t have one in front of me to fiddle with at the moment, I can’t list the how-to on that. (Perhaps one day soon! Or perhaps I’ll find a Nikon user to post a how-to!)

From the main screen, you’ll want to select menu, and then move to the second settings menu screen, which will look like this. Select “Picture Style”. (Usually they are “Standard, Portrait, Landscape,” etc.)

On this next screen, scroll down until you reach User Def. 1 and push your blue “Jump” button to advance to the details part of this custom profile.

Now here’s the fun part! You get to take a bunch of photos and decide your profile based on your personal preference. Now, I use three custom profiles interchangeably, one for every day shooting, one for portraits (it’s softer), and one for when I’m inside at night and I don’t want my photos looking ridiculously orange. (You know what I mean!) Pictured here is my every day profile. I selected Standard as my base and then adjusted to taste!

Pretty neat, huh? And super easy, too! Now, if you’re shooting in RAW format you won’t see these colors as much (if at all), they show up on the JPEG format, so be sure you’re shooting in JPEG + RAW (or just JPEG technically but I don’t recommend that simply because you can go crazy with your RAW files!)

All that is left, literally, is to adjust your photo for the web, because trust me, it looks awesome right now on your camera screen and your computer screen but when you upload it to Flickr it won’t look quite so hot. So depending on the photo you’ll need to make different touch ups. For a typical photo I will tweak the vibrancy (Image, Adjustments, Vibrance) and contrast (Ctrl + L), so that it looks like it does on my camera, but that’s all I need!! The times of slaving in Photoshop are over, now you’ll be free to tinker, adjust, and if you happen to enjoy playing in Photoshop (which I absolutely do) it will be four hours of fun instead of frustration.

I hope this tutorial helped you all in some way, please comment and let me know if you found it useful! It’s the first tutorial I’ve ever done and I’d like to know if it helped someone, how I can improve, or if I should make more in the future. And of course, if you have any other questions, feel free to ask and I’ll do the best I can to help!

  • •••
  • Thanks for leaving a comment, please keep it clean. HTML allowed is strong, code and a href.